Readers, I can't make this stuff up...this is, in fact, a pair of Turducken burger sliders. Ground Turkey, Ground Chicken, and Duck Confit...with cheese. Biltmore Cafe, lunch today.
Taste was actually pretty mild, surprisingly. Needs more confit, I think :)
Sent from my BlackBerry wireless device.
"What about second breakfast?...What about elevenses? Luncheon? Afternoon tea? Dinner? Supper? He knows about them, doesn't he?"
Friday, November 19, 2010
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Let Them Eat Cake ! ! !
| Michelle's Mousse Cake on left, White Chocolate-Amaretto Cheesecake on right |
I love making birthday cakes. Well, I love all forms of cooking (and eating !), but there is just something special about desserts, and birthday cake in particular. Anticipation is high, the "ooh...ahh..." factor is ramped up, there's a lot more moaning and sighing...for me, it's just the ultimate reward...culinary orgasm, indeed :).
My brother and sister both have November birthdays, and ever since I can remember we've always had one birthday party for both of them. They actually don't seem to mind, but ever since I took over the duties of birthday cake I've always felt that it was important to make them each their own...gotta feel a little special, after all. Birthday "Cake" is in this case a loose interpretation...for a few years running, my sister got a Birthday Godiva Tiramisu...nothing wrong with that !
One of our family deals is that you get to pick whatever you want for your birthday dinner, and of course you get to pick your cake as well. My brother, for the past few years, has selected my White Chocolate-Amaretto Cheesecake. This cake is based on one from the Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook (one of my very favorite cookbooks...the original cheesecake, which is hazelnut based, can be found here ), and it was actually invented for my brother-in-law, who loves white chocolate and Amaretto. Basically, I swapped out the hazelnuts, hazelnut praline, and Frangelico/vanilla for slivered almonds, almond praline (or a mix of almond toffee bits and glazed almonds), and Amaretto. I am not a fan of white chocolate (seriously, why does it even get to be called chocolate ? Heresy !), but the qualities I dislike - the sweetness, the mouthfeel - actually work perfectly in cheesecake. Strange, but true. The first time I made this cheesecake and tasted the filling in the mixer, I knew I had a winner...it's just a perfect combination, somehow even greater than the sum of its parts.
Half the order thus secure, I went about trying to collect the rest of it. I'm not sure if my sister was being indecisive or just trying to be easy, but all I could get was "surprise me...something chocolate", with random mutterings about mousse. While I'm all over making whatever the recipient wants, I do like whatever I make to be one sort of unit that I can stick candles in, so I didn't want to make dishes of mousse. But it seemed to me I should be able to find some sort of layered cake-mousse thing that would fit the bill...so off to search the interwebs I went.
After a lot of searching, the recipe I liked the best was Cooks Illustrated Triple Chocolate Mousse Cake (recipe here, but you have to sign up...various bloggers have also mentioned it, which is where I mostly read about it). Flourless chocolate cake for the bottom layer...chocolate mousse for the top two layers. Unfortunately, the recipe as written uses a white chocolate mousse for the top layer - which looked delicious, but I didn't want both cakes to involve white chocolate. The recipe I liked next best was Martha Stewart's Triple Chocolate Mousse Cakes ...the top layer on those was a milk chocolate mousse, but the cakes were individual, I didn't like the cake part as much, and (typical Martha) the mousses looked WAY more complicated than they needed to be. I love complicated (someday I'll post the rack of lamb that takes three days to cook and is worth every second), but I saw no need to coat myself in boiling sugar syrup, which I'm sure would have been a result of the Martha method. The CI mousses were much simpler and looked amazing...so, I decided to darken up the first mousse layer (for more contrast), and make a milk chocolate mousse for the top layer instead of white by simply subbing out chocolates. In a word : WIN. This cake was unbelievable...rich and chocolately, but light and delicious. The three layers complimented each other beautifully. The only change I'll make next time is to put a round of parchment paper at the bottom of the pan, as the slices were a bit difficult to get off cleanly.
And so, another successful Scorpio party...happy birthday to the best little siblings anywhere :)
White Chocolate-Amaretto Cheesecake
As noted, if you can't find (or don't want to make) Almond Praline, a mix of almond toffee chips (aka Heath bits) and glazed almonds (such as Almond Accents Honey Roasted) works just fine...both are easy to find. Use about 2/3 cup of the Heath bits and 1/3 cup of the almonds. Also, if your springform is smaller that 10 inches you will have extra filling, as this thing puffs while it bakes. Have an extra pie plate graham cracker crust ready, pour whatever's left inside, and bake it until done. Someone will appreciate it I'm sure !
Ingredients :
1 cup Almond Praline
1 package (9 oz) chocolate wafers (Nabisco Famous are the most common brand)
1/4 cup slivered almonds
2 T sugar
1 t cinnamon
14 T (1 3/4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
4 eggs
1 egg yolk
1 pound good quality white chocolate, melted (microwave is fine)
1/4 cup Amaretto
pinch of nutmeg
Directions :
Process praline (or substitutes) in food processor until ground; set aside . Process wafers, slivered almonds, sugar and cinnamon until finely crushed. Butter 10 inch springform pan with 1 T of the butter. Melt 5 tablespoons of the butter and stir into the cookie crumb mixture. Set 3 T of this mixture aside to top the cake while it bakes. Press the remainder into the bottom and about 3/4 way up the sides of the pan. Refrigerate while you make the filling
Preheat oven to 300 degrees
Beat the cream cheese in a large bowl until light and fluffy (stand mixer is easiest for this part if you have one). Beat in the eggs, one at a time, and then the egg yolk. Beat in the remaining 8 T of butter, then the white chocolate (cooled, but still melted). Mix in the Amaretto, the praline, and the nutmeg. Carefully pour the filling into the crust, about level with the crumbs.
Bake for 1 1/2 hours, sprinkling the reserved crumbs over the top after an hour. Let cool completely, then refrigerate until cold. (For the look above, decorate with more glazed or slivered almonds before refrigerating).
Michelle's Mousse Cake
just perfection :)
Ingredients:
For the bottom layer:
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces (plus extra for greasing the pan)
7 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
¾ tsp. instant espresso powder
1½ tsp. vanilla extract
4 large eggs, separated
Pinch of salt
1/3 cup light brown sugar, packed
For the middle layer:
2 tbsp. dark cocoa powder (Hershey's Special Dark is perfect)
5 tbsp. hot water
7 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1½ cups heavy cream
1 tbsp. granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
For the top layer:
¾ tsp. powdered gelatin
1 tbsp. water
6 oz. milk chocolate chips (use really good quality milk chocolate - Ghiardelli are great)
1½ cups heavy creamFor the bottom layer:
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces (plus extra for greasing the pan)
7 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
¾ tsp. instant espresso powder
1½ tsp. vanilla extract
4 large eggs, separated
Pinch of salt
1/3 cup light brown sugar, packed
For the middle layer:
2 tbsp. dark cocoa powder (Hershey's Special Dark is perfect)
5 tbsp. hot water
7 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1½ cups heavy cream
1 tbsp. granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
For the top layer:
¾ tsp. powdered gelatin
1 tbsp. water
6 oz. milk chocolate chips (use really good quality milk chocolate - Ghiardelli are great)
For garnish:
dark chocolate curls or shavings (I ran a vegetable peeler along the long edge of a Ghiardelli Bittersweet bar)
Directions:
To make the bottom layer, butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan. (line the bottom of the pan with a parchment round for easy removal later.) Center a rack in the oven and preheat to 325˚ F. Combine the butter, chocolate, and espresso powder in a double boiler, whisking occasionally until smooth. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the vanilla and egg yolks, and set aside.
Beat the egg whites and salt on medium speed until foamy, about 30 seconds (again, stand mixer is perfect if you have one). Crumble half of the brown sugar into the mixing bowl with your fingers to remove any lumps. Beat until incorporated, about 15 seconds. Add the remaining brown sugar and continue to beat on high speed until stiff peaks form, about 1 minute more. Using a whisk, mix one-third of the beaten egg whites to the chocolate mixture to lighten it. Fold in the remaining egg whites gently with a rubber spatula until no streaks remain. Pour the batter into the prepared springform pan and smooth the top with a spatula.
Bake until the cake has risen, is firm around the edges and the center has just set but is still soft (should spring back after pressing gently with a finger), about 14-18 minutes. Transfer the cake to a wire rack to cool completely, at least 1 hour. Do not remove the cake from the pan. (If not making the second layer right away, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to proceed.)
To make the second layer, whisk together the cocoa powder and hot water in a small bowl; set aside. Melt the chocolate (microwave works fine), stirring occasionally until smooth. Once melted, remove from the heat and let cool slightly, 2-5 minutes.
Using clean beaters, whip the cream, sugar and salt on medium speed until the mixture begins to thicken, about 30 seconds. Increase the speed to high and whip until soft peaks form when the whisk is lifted, 30-60 seconds. Whisk in the cocoa powder mixture until smooth. Using a whisk, mix one-third of the whipped cream to the chocolate mixture to lighten it. Fold in the remaining whipped cream gently with a rubber spatula until no streaks remain. Pour the mousse into the springform pan over the cooled cake and tap gently on the counter 3 times to remove air bubbles. Gently smooth the top with a spatula. Wipe the inside edge of the pan to remove any drips. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes while preparing the top layer.
To make the top layer, sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small bowl and let stand at least 5 minutes to soften. Place the chocolate chips in a medium bowl. Heat ½ cup of the cream until almost boiling in a small saucepan. Remove the pan from the heat, add the gelatin mixture and stir until dissolved. Pour the hot cream mixture over the chocolate chips and let stand about 1 minute. Whisk until the mixture is smooth. Cool to room temperature, about 5-8 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Using clean beaters, whip the remaining 1 cup of cream at medium speed until it begins to thicken. Increase the speed to high and whip until soft peaks form when the whisk is lifted, 30-60 seconds. Using a whisk, mix one-third of the whipped cream to the white chocolate mixture to lighten it. Fold in the remaining whipped cream gently with a rubber spatula until no streaks remain. Spoon the milk chocolate mousse into the pan over the middle layer. Smooth the top with an offset spatula. Sprinkle with chocolate shavings, and return the cake to the refrigerator and chill until set, at least 2½ hours. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Crockpot Conversations
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| "what I got...I said remember that... ":) |
by special request...more of an article, this time :) Never fear, recipes will be included at the end !!
I'm a relative newcomer to the wonderful world of crockpot cookery. I'm usually too far behind in the morning to do much (what with the sleeping, the working out, and breakfast with the kid...yeah, I should get up earlier, but 5:30 AM already seems too early !! ) and until a few years ago I didn't own a crockpot with an insert that I could fill the night before (sticking the whole thing, plug and all, in the fridge didn't seem like a great option.) My little sister was nice enough to upgrade my equipment one Christmas, which neatly took care of that issue...but then the problem was finding dishes that met my exacting C.O. standards. I want the good stuff - an aromatic, flavorful, hearty meal that can cook on low for the 9 - 10 hours I'm at work and not be overcooked. Through trial and error, I've discovered what works well for me, and what doesn't.
I think the first rule is that you have to go with the right cut of meat (unless you are doing a veggie dish like ratatouille...but that's more of a half day deal). Boneless, skinless chicken breast just doesn't seem to hold up well in a crockpot for 10 hours. I do often make whole chickens, which work out wonderfully...the trick with those is to get the biggest one I can jam in the crockpot, because it's going to be falling apart tender when it's done and the bigger ones retain a bit more structural integrity. Chicken thighs are the perfect crockpot denizens, as they have the flavor to stand up to long cooking. Most ways I do the thighs involve liquid that pretty much covers them, so taking the skin off is indeed essential - not because it's better for you (which it is), but because submerged skin won't do that lovely crispy thing, even if you brown it first.
Speaking of browning, it really does improve the flavor substantially, so my second rule is that you should do it whenver the recipe calls for it and you have the time. I've skipped it and ended up with decent results, but it really does give you a much nicer dish.
Pork products are usually great in crockpot applications....well, maybe not pork chops themselves, though my mother has a recipe she's been trying to get me to make for years which she may tell you about :). Ham and sausages, though, are just perfect - usually with some sort of legume, a match made in heaven. The long cooking time just gets all of the love out of the pig and into the beans. By far, the best has been cassoulet...which is just all kinds of delicious anyway, and the crockpot makes it easy. One of the best things about it is it takes to so many combinations of meats...a combination of smoked, cured, and regular is what you're going for, but it doesn't matter which one is which. I know the next one I make is going to involve smoked turkey legs and a chicken liver stock, among other things. Usually cassoulet is topped with breadcrumbs before baking, but in the crockpot version you just toast up the breadcrumbs in some butter when you get home and scatter them over the pot. Mmmm.....getting excited just thinking about it !
I don't tend to do a lot of beef in the crockpot - I know beef stew is definitely a popular crockpot dish, but my guys love my regular beef stew so much that I think there would be a revolt if I changed anything. The one beef dish I do regularly make in the crockpot is Guinness Pot Roast. I was never a great pot roast maker until I came up with this one...it's really simple and really, really, REALLY good. Both the pot roast and one of the chicken recipes call for onion soup mix, which brings me to my third and fourth rule - #3 is make sure you season well, and don't be afraid to taste and season again when you get home. A long stint in the pot can really dull some seasonings, and there's no reason for anything to be bland. While I am not a huge mix person, the onion soup mix really works well for crockpot applications, as it holds up to long cooking and has plenty of flavor. Rule #4 is that you really don't need as much liquid as you think. The crockpot is sealed, so all of the lovely juices from your ingredients are going to stay right there and not steam off. Rule 4A is that if you do prep the night before, don't add the liquid until the next morning before you leave - you don't want that small amount of liquid to soak in before you get to cook with it !
And now the really good stuff...the recipes !
Coq au Vin
This is what started the idea for this article...last night's dinner. Adaptation from BH+G.
4 pounds chicken thighs, skinned
olive oil
1 envelope onion soup mix (Lipton Golden is my personal favorite.
2 cups pearl onions (tricolor if you can find them; otherwise white work just fine)
3 cups mushrooms - Baby Bellas cut in half work great
3/4 cup red wine
Mashed Potatoes, for serving (my current favorite : red, skin on, with mascarpone, salt and pepper mixed in before mashing)
Directions
Lightly oil a large heavy skillet. Cook chicken thighs, several at a time, in the hot skillet until brown. Layer half the chicken, half the mushrooms, and half the onions. Sprinkle with half the soup mix, then repeat the whole thing. Right before cooking, pour wine over the whole thing. Cook 8 - 9 hours on LOW.
Chicken and Dumplings
another BH+G adaptation. This one takes 30 minutes when you get home for the gravy and dumplings, but it is so worth it.
2 cups chopped carrots
2 cups chopped potatoes
2 leeks, chopped
1 cup chopped parsnips
1 clove garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
1 t dried sage
1/2 t salt
1/4 t ground pepper
2 lbs boneless skinless thighs, cut into 1 inch pieces
3 cups chicken stock
2 T butter
2 T flour
for dumplings :
1/2 c flour
1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1/3 cup cornmeal
1 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
1 egg, beaten
1/4 c buttermilk
For stew : combine vegetables in slow cooker and top with chicken. Pour stock over chicken, cook on low 8 - 10 hours. Turn heat to high. Melt butter in small saucepan and whisk in flour to make roux. Whisk in broth from stew, a ladleful at a time, until you have a nice gravy. Stir this back into stew.
For dumplings : combine dry ingredients and cheese. In a separate bowl combine egg and buttermilk. Add egg mixture to flour mixture, and stir until moist. Drop by large spoonfuls on top of stew, cover, and cook for 25-30 minutes until toothpick inserted in dumpling comes out clean.
Whole Chicken in Crockpot
1 cup celery sticks
1 cup baby carrots
1 cup pearl onions
1 small container baby potatoes, left whole (I think they are 24 oz - clear plastic box)
1 whole chicken - 5-7 lbs
1 lemon, cut in half
4 - 6 cloves garlic
kosher salt
cracked black pepper
paprika
Spread veggies and potatoes in bottom of crockpot. Place lemon halves and garlic cloves in cavity of chicken. Sprinkle chicken liberally with salt, pepper and paprika. Cook on LOW 8 hours. Serve with Crockpot Gravy (see below)
Guinness Pot Roast
4-5 lb pot roast
1 envelope onion soup
8 small onions
1 small container baby potatoes, left whole
1/2 small bag baby carrots
salt and pepper
1 can Guinness
Salt and pepper roast, and brown on all sides in a skillet. Place on top of veggies in crockpot and sprinkle with soup mix. Pour Guinness over the whole thing. Cook 5 hours on HIGH or 8 -10 on LOW. Serve with Crockpot Gravy
Crockpot Gravy
Whisk 2 T flour and 2 T cold water until smooth. You can either then put this directly in the crockpot, turn to HIGH, and cover and cook until thick (10 minutes or so) - or, you can remove your cooking liquid to a small saucepan, heat it, whisk in the flour mixture, and simmer until thick. I prefer this method.
Ratatouille in a Crockpot
This is the recipe I usually use - http://recipes.lovetoknow.com/wiki/Ratatouille_in_a_Crockpot . Comes out perfectly, and really - why mess with success ??
Crockpot Cassoulet
This is a basic recipe, well suited for swapping ingredients around or adding more of what you love. I love adding half a cooked duck (usually available at Whole Foods) for at least some of the chicken, and smoked turkey parts are nice too. Leftover ham works really well, as does leftover roast pork. Just make sure you have a mix…a ham type item, some poultry, and a sausage are what you need to make the beans sing.
2 ham hocks
2 cups dried white navy beans, soaked, drained and rinsed
1 T olive oil
2 onions, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 stalks celery, peeled and diced
1 sprig fresh rosemary or 2 tsp. dried rosemary leaves
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves ( or 3/4 teaspoon dried)
1 bay leaf
4 cups chicken stock or water (approx.)
6 (4 oz.) chicken thighs, rinsed and patted dry
12 ounces Andouille sausage
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
2 T butter
1 T chopped parsley
Directions
In slow cooker stoneware, combine ham hocks and beans.
In a skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions, carrots and celery and cook, stirring, until softened. Add rosemary, thyme and bay leaf and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Transfer mixture to slow cooker stoneware. Add meats, and chicken stock. Cook on low 8 – 10 hours.
For topping, melt butter in skillet. Add breadcrumbs and toast until golden. Mix in parsley, sprinkle over cassoulet.
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